From working on the set of Spice World to becoming an ambassador for one of the most popular curl care brands in the world, Shea Moisture, Jennie Roberts’ career in the hair industry spans nearly four decades. But she’s not slowing down yet. Eager to pass on her extensive knowledge of textured hair cutting, styling and care, she has just launched her namesake Hair Academy, which offers courses to both professionals and consumers who really want to get to know natural hair. “I’ve been teaching for about 15 years now, but specifically teaching curly, afro hair styling for about eight years. In that time, I found that hairstylists are terrified of black hair,” says Roberts.
Breaking the silence
There has been a raft of pioneering hairdressers like Roberts moving the needle on black hair education over the years, and yet, the struggle continues for parts of the hairdressing industry that have not been quick to adapt the changing tides. The Sky documentary Untold Stories: Hair On Set, featured exclusive interviews with film stars including Naomie Harris (Skyfall) and Nathalie Emmanuel (Game of Thrones), who for the first time break their silence on hair discrimination. Alarmingly, generations of curly-haired women have been subjected to styling their own hair on set, being left with irreversible damage or having to wear unsuitable wigs because the hairstylist lacked knowledge. With these stories coming to the fore, Roberts highlights the need for constant learning in these spaces. “The Academy is about demystifying everything. I want to teach people about texture, not just about the one-to-four curl pattern, but what makes texture, texture. As well as that, the glossary associated with textured hair. Because who understands the meaning of laid edges or a TWA if you’re not in the black community? It’s about teaching people, in a safe space, the right terms and techniques.”
Classes for curls
With a solid commitment to not only helping professionals, Roberts has made it her mission to curate classes to help everyone; from models to mothers; Caucasian to mixed-race, The Hair Academy has its doors open to everyone. “I offer a three-day intense cutting course and that’s for qualified hairdressers to learn how to cut Afro textured hair. Students will learn bantu knots, twists and flat twists, canerows, how to wash and detangle, and to set hair in its natural form. I’m also offering a consumer course, because there are many everyday people who are embracing their own natural hair but aren’t sure how to care for or style it. This is suitable for foster parents who want to learn how to do kids’ with mixed or afro hair.”
Future hair goals
After a long history of misinformation and bias against curly textured hair in the fashion, hair and beauty industry, Roberts’ career has been centred on empowering and supporting the concept to choose. “I know that black women receive a lot of judgement about identity regarding wearing wigs and weaves, but it’s all about choice. If you do want to make a change, I can help you embrace your natural hair and feel empowered by it, by teaching you how to care for it in the best way in a safe, non-judgemental environment.”
With so much knowledge to share, we ask Jennie to give her wisdom on three prevailing issues in the curly hair community.
Dealing with discrimination
“It’s important to know that your hair can’t be used to discriminate against you anymore. You have legal rights over protected characteristics, and curly hair and Afro hair come with these protected characteristics, just like black skin. You can’t say that black skin is unprofessional and ask someone to make themselves whiter! Just go for it and wear your natural hair – you shouldn’t have to have a discussion with the HR department, but if you are worried about it, then do so. On top of that, people must educate themselves on microaggressions, like asking someone with textured hair if it’s their real hair or saying that they prefer someone’s hair tied up. We’ve got enough on our plates already, in addition to having to defend our hair.”
Social media and hair
“I think it’s great that curly and Afro hair has a platform now. You’ve just got to take everything with a pinch of salt and look at the source of the content. For example, on YouTube there are licensed cosmetologists, as they call them in America, and there are professional hair stylists in the UK and all over. If the creator is a professional, then I’d be more willing to take on board their advice. But if it’s a kid grabbing a colander and using it to dry their hair, then it’s just fun content – it’s not for professionals to take on board, or even for them to discuss. That’s why I tell my students to forget everything they’ve seen on TikTok!”
Silver hair confidence
“I have nothing against other people covering their greys, but for me, what you see is what you get. I do think it’s important to the world to show that this is what a woman looks like when she’s ageing. I’m not covering it up. I’m not going to apologise for it. I don’t want to look like someone who’s trying to fight it, because that can look a bit tragic. Since I cut all my hair off and started again with grey hair, I get so many compliments, particularly from young women. If I’ve made one person feel that they could do it too, without having to buy into society’s beauty standards, that’s great.”
Follow Jennie Roberts on Instagram @jennierobertshair
Image credits: Photography by Ruth Samuels. Hair by Jennie Roberts Hair assisted by Luke Christou. Make-up by Harriot Babin. Styling by David Daley assisted by Lucy Lethbridge.
