It has been documented that people of different genders have worn makeup since 4000 BCE. However, it is only recently that mainstream presentations of makeup have become closely associated with – or, in fact, exclusive to – cisgendered women. As such, this has bred stigmas around people of other genders expressing themselves through makeup.
London-based artist, performer and content creator Darkwah has collaborated with cosmetics brand Sleek MakeUP for a five-month Allyship Ambassador campaign with the aim of changing the general perceptions of makeup, and to open the door for those of different genders to wear makeup with confidence.
Here, we speak to both Darkwah and Sleek MakeUP to get the low-down on their partnership.
How does make-up allow someone to better understand their identity?
Darkwah says…
I think, if I’m perfectly honest, that it’s less about understanding an identity as that makes it seem as though we as people are set and unchangeable entities. We are constantly learning, growing and changing – so it’s more that makeup helps someone realize the person they identify as in whatever stage of life that they are in.
Like – I didn’t and couldn’t see myself the way I am now even last year, really! Through using makeup, experimenting and spending time with myself while doing it, I realized there was more that I had in me – more to give, more to become. It’s all because of the fluid nature of makeup – which you realize and understand more as you use it more. I use all my products for anything I can think of. Eyeshadows become liners or blushes; lighter foundations as a highlight when doing a full face. It all just is what you want it to be and thinking about that, I started to broaden the scope and ideas around the ways I wanted to look, energies I wanted to exude, etc.
It allows this discovery and blossoming of self because without saying anything to you – just by seeing something someone else has done that’s a little bit different – it asks you to do more for you. Just to see the possibilities.
Many people still have an issue with gender identities other than cis and trans women wearing make-up. What can make-up brands do today to educate and spread inclusivity?
Darkwah says…
Makeup brands can try harder to show more types of people using and wearing makeup.
It’s really that simple. It’s not only AMAB (assigned male at birth) people who look like James Charles who enjoy and wear makeup.
The more we see something, the more it is absorbed. If you saw my phone number every few days on tv, you’d eventually know it off by heart. Seeing a wide range of people who use and enjoy makeup will eventually mean anyone can because we are all used to seeing something. It’s quite simplistic, I know. But it’s just how we are as humans.
What is your advice for gender variant people who may feel unsafe expressing their identity with make-up in public?
Darkwah says…
Okay – I have two things.
Firstly, if you feel unsafe but are the kind of person who would still go ahead and do it (I was one of those people), learn to do skin. As you do that and get better at it, you can be out and have your skin look amazing simply because of your skill. Then as you go along, you’ll build your confidence to a point where you are ready and feel like you are either safe enough or have enough of a good safety net, that you can do what you want, out.
If you’re not like the first person, or for whatever reason cannot be that way, you are perfectly fine to learn and hone your skills in your room or at a trusted friend’s house. There is nothing wrong with who you are and what you love and just because where you are right now, you can’t do it freely doesn’t mean you won’t be able to do so. If you find you still have the itch to create, then maybe try prosthetics first. It might be an easy introduction to those around you as you need to know how to paint a prosthetic correctly in order to make it look real – so makeup will be a natural and necessary progression.
What kind of topics are covered in the ‘Let’s Talk About It…’ series?
Darkwah says.. Ooh! I don’t want to say too much but you can definitely expect some great makeup, edifying and healing conversation on the Queer / QPOC experience and great tips on allyship.
What was it about Haus of Darkwah that made them a perfect fit for Sleek MakeUP’s Allyship Ambassador Campaign?
Annie Parkinsons from Sleek MakeUP says… Darkwah is not only an incredible content creator and artist with a unique vision & perspective, they also have such a beautiful and eloquent tone of voice; approaching conversations around Allyship, specifically relating to Queerness & Blackness from a very community centric point of view. This is really what attracted us to working with them on this campaign, we saw their potential to educate, collaborate and connect with not only us but more importantly our consumers & our audience.
When did Darkwah come up on Sleek’s radar, and what was it that made the brand notice them?
Annie Parkinsons from Sleek MakeUP says… Darkwah has been on Sleek’s radar for a fair few years now, not only because of their incredible talent & honest nature, but also because they have been a brand supporter and advocate for years – using, raving about and supporting our brand and products. We love to support those who support us.
Darkwah has said in the past that they may seem ‘brand unsafe’ (due to showing a lot of skin, etc.). What’s your stance on working with creators whom other brands may reject due to their content style?
Annie Parkinsons from Sleek MakeUP says… It is exactly this, what some might consider ‘daring’ content style, that drew us to Darkwah. For us, it is more about what these creators are saying and standing for, and less about how they chose to present themselves. We love that Darkwah has such a strong vision and want to empower them to share it fair and wide – it is often these disruptive and unique perspectives that capture the attention of audiences and encourages them to engage. This is exactly what we want to do; Darkwah has the ability to create a safe and open place for the Queer & Black communities to come to learn and feel a sense of community, we want to help create it.
What are some other ways in which Sleek MakeUP acts as a safe space for all identities?
Annie Parkinsons from Sleek MakeUP says… Sleek exists to amplify those who want to be seen and heard, regardless of race, gender, ethnicity, religion, age & overall how someone chooses to identity. We endeavor to make our brand accessible to all; whether that be from a colour cosmetics perspective (having all shades for all skin tones) or from a cost & affordability perspective. We hope that with our Allyship campaign comes content to support this mission – for decades we have been at the forefront of creating truly diverse make up brands, supplying products that suit anyone, we now want to create the content to bolster and support this.
