When Judy Koloko set out to launch The Sanctuary, Europe’s first textured hair salon within a department store, she knew that it would be no easy feat. However, she persisted, driven by the need to create something that was, in her words, bigger than her.
The Sanctuary, located inside London’s prestigious Selfridges department store, is just that – a sanctuary, where stylists (called The Steam Queens) are carefully selected and rigorously trained to provide a premium service using none other than Koloko’s own product range, The Steam Bar.
Below, Judy takes us through the ins and outs of her business journey, from initial talks with Selfridges, to The Sanctuary’s future worldwide expansion.
What inspired you to launch The Steam Bar?
Over time, I noticed increasing hair and scalp damage from personal styling practices and sought solutions through salons and various products. However, nothing I tried met the high standards I hold in other aspects of my life. With Afro hair, salon experiences and products I often felt they fell short of the mark for me in terms of a standard I’d come to appreciate and I know we deserve the best. Just like we appreciate a high standard in our travel and shopping experiences, premium hair care destinations should also cater to our needs for exceptional service. Hair steaming has been carried out in afro salons for generations.
Can you remind us of the benefits to regular steaming?
There are so many benefits to steaming as it opens the pores on our scalps that helps to detoxify and also increases blood circulation which supports the scalp in producing its natural oils. Alongside this the heating process involved in steaming aides ingredients from topical treatments to better be absorbed by the scalp and penetrate the hair follicles which can support healthier hair growth and nourishment.
Tell us more about your personal hair journey– what were your most profound moments throughout your relationship with your hair?
Like a lot of black women I have experimented with many styles when it comes to my hair; everything from hot combing, relaxing, braids, weaves etc. I’ve had fun with my hair, using it as a form of self expression and liberation. My desire to always switch it up is rooted in my confidence and appreciation for the multi faceted ways that my hair allows me to show up in the world as who I choose to be.
How does your background in the fashion industry influence your approach to hair care?
Throughout my entire career, I have been deeply rooted in the fashion industry, initially as a model agent and later as a creative agent. Collaborating with internationally acclaimed models and artists within fashion and beauty has provided me with a keen appreciation for excellence in all aspects of life, extending beyond just aesthetics. I acknowledge the privilege of being exposed to these experiences, and I am driven to provide my community with an elevated standard of service through The Steam Bar.
Drawing from my meticulous approach as an agent, I have learned that attention to detail is crucial for creating a truly impactful outcome. This involves working closely with top photographers, models, set and fashion designers to present something truly remarkable. The Steam Bar was born from this philosophy, where I have collaborated with leading trichologists, formulators, stylists, and designers to ensure the best possible outcome.
What sets The Steam Bar products apart from other products on the market?
Our approach is skin care for the scalp; we worked with an amazing formulator and renowned cosmetic scientists who have particular expertise in understanding the skin microbiome and ingredients that support and nourish this. We call our approach ‘skinification’ as we have used ingredients that are usually found in skincare products in our hair care products to ensure the best level of treating the scalp as the basis to support healthy hair growth; ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, glycerine and prebiotics to name a few. The latter allows for the pH balance of the scalp to remain at the pH level it should be at, so the microbiome is being regulated. The ingredients are highly active and when you pair this with steaming it allows the scalp’s pores to open with the heat and all of these ingredients really are able to penetrate the scalp through the steaming process.
It’s skinification meets the ritual of steaming. There’s nobody else out there doing it like we are and also the fact that we’re also offering a professional salon experience that provides direct education and care to our community that they can then go home. We want our Sanctuary to be a place where our community can come into and feel like they are being seen and held, and that they belong.
The Sanctuary is touted as the first textured hair salon within a department store in Europe. What challenges did you face in bringing this vision to life?
Sometimes I actually wake up and I think about what possessed me to go down this road, but that feeling never lasts long because I understand that this work is needed and it’s bigger than me.
One of the first major challenges was fundraising. I knew from the beginning what elements The Steam Bar had to have in play to make it stand out and be effective and those were going to be costly. I’ve had conversations with department stores where they’re say they’ve got one black haircare brand and they’re not able to bring in more because they’re struggling to attract the textured hair consumer as it is. I’ve been told a myriad of reasons as to why The Steam Bar or black hair products don’t work in their space and it’s totally understandable. I don’t take offense; I just moved on until I found retail partners who got it and were as excited about it as I am and were willing to work with me to make it work.
Other challenges have been trying to find formulators who understood the brief and could deliver without exception, etc. There are so many trials and tribulations; things that you could not even imagine that come into play, but I choose to just keep digging and going, as it’s about me creating something that’s setting the standards for where the black hair care industry needs to go. So even though it is trying at times and sometimes I really do feel like God is testing me, ultimately I know what we’re going to create and when we come out the other end we will do nothing but feel extremely proud of what we have achieved.
Selfridges is a prestigious retail destination. What opportunities and advantages does partnering with such an institution offer for promoting diversity and inclusivity in the beauty industry?
Working with Selfridges has been a journey that started about two years ago when I met with them. During the pitch, they were impressed by the proposition. Their support during the launch has been fantastic, and they recognise the need for premium hair brands in our community, which excites them about introducing brands like mine. Partnering with a department store like Selfridges elevates your brand into the luxury space, establishing credibility. The store attracts a diverse range of customers beyond my usual target audience, creating new opportunities for awareness and growth.
Being in a space with a wide variety of visitors allows The Steam Bar to be among highly sought-after beauty brands and designers, which is truly exciting.
Can you tell us more about The Steam Queens, your team of stylists? What qualities do you look for when assembling your team?
The Steam Queens are the first port of call when you come into our Sanctuary. They have been given a bespoke programme of training by the Director of The College of Trichology on understanding the fundamentals of the physiology of Afro and textured hair alongside scalp care. I felt it was really important that our Queens are not just stylists, but also trained on what the scalp is doing, how the hair grows, what hair is – you know, the history of hair – there’s so much that has gone into this programme, so we are extremely privileged to have him come on board.
They have been trained to this level of understanding for all hair and head types, from straight, to natural, to bald, and I feel that the training programme we have will give them the tools and the knowledge to make sure that our clients really understand they are in expert hands.
One of the qualities I looked for when putting together The Steam Queens was sociability and presence as I knew they needed to be to carry themselves with an air of confidence that a Queen has, whilst understanding the need to be of service to others. I’ve put together a group of women that have never met each other and they’re going to work intensely together so I had to make sure that the fit was right and sometimes that’s not an easy thing in itself, but I feel very happy with my Queens.
You also offer a Wig Laundry service– what’s The Sanctuary’s approach to refreshing a wig?
It’s a full service MOT if you will. We assess the wig and offer everything from hair re-installation, lace repair, washing and conditioning to styling. All of which can be delivered within 48hrs. I’ve always loved using a wig dry cleaner, because the level of finish I get cannot be achieved when I do it myself and sometimes I’d unintentionally end up damaging wigs.
With our wig dry cleaning service, we bring your wigs back to life so it looks brand new and saves you from wastage. We look at this also through the lens of sustainable practice.
How do you envision The Sanctuary contributing to the cultural and historical significance of Afro salon experiences?
From the early 1900s, scholars have cited the salon has always been a space of safety, connection and celebration for our community, and I hope our Sanctuary is going to provide the same for our clients and customers today. Somewhere where they feel that they belong, and that arms them with not only a great hair care service that empowers individual confidence, but also with education and knowledge in other areas of life, as we will be launching a event series that connects our community with leading figures in their fields with moments based on everything from identity to health, art to parenting.
For us the true salon space is one that serves us from our outer to crown to what lies beneath.
In what ways do you see The Steam Bar and The Sanctuary evolving and expanding in the future?
I would like to see a Steam Bar located in every major city across the world that offers a top tier standard of hair care services, a space where people will feel like they are being pampered, they’re being nurtured and they’re being educated to stride as their best selves and honour their crowns.
