What’s the difference between squalane and squalene?

These two popular skincare ingredients differ in more than just spelling!

02/12/2023

With the overload of skincare consumption, skincare ingredients have become a little confusing, especially when they’re spelt similar but are different. Enter Squalane vs Squalene, both appearing on multiple hair and skincare products, we ask the experts what is the difference? And which is better for the hair and skin?

“Squalane is a naturally occurring hydrocarbon derived from the organic compound squalene. It is an extremely versatile ingredient that has gained increasing popularity in the skincare industry due to its unique chemical properties and versatility. “Squalane’s exceptional skin compatibility, moisturising and emollient properties have made it a sought-after ingredient in the cosmetics industry. Its ability to effectively hydrate and improve skin elasticity coupled with it being noncomedogenic has led to its use in a vast array of skin care products, including moisturisers, serums, and anti-aging formulations. “Traditionally, squalane was primarily sourced from shark liver oil; however, due to ethical and sustainability, alternative extraction methods have been employed. Today, the majority of squalane is sourced from plant derived oils using advanced extraction techniques.”

– Cigdem Kemal Yilmaz, founder of Skin Masterclass

What is the difference between squalane and squalene?

“Squalane and squalene are both natural organic compounds that are derived from the same source, but they differ in terms of their structure and properties. Squalene is the compound naturally found in certain oils and one of the predominant components of sebum of our skin. Squalane is the hydrogenated and most stable squalene that is commonly used in skin care and cosmetics products for its moisturising and skin conditioning properties.”

Cigdem Kemal Yilmaz, founder of Skin Masterclass

What types of products are squalane and squalene usually found in?

“You can find squalane and squalene in a whole host of skincare and cosmetics products. “Squalene is often used as an emollient, moisturising/hydrating, agent. It has excellent skin penetrating abilities which help to maintain skin hydration and prevent moisture loss. Squalene is frequently included in moisturising creams, lotions, and serums to enhance hydration and improve the skin’s elasticity. It can also be found in facial oils combined with other oils such as argan oil and jojoba to nourish and soften the skin.

“You can find squalane in moisturisers, serums, facial oils, cleansers, lip products, and hair care products such as shampoos, conditioners, and hair serums. It’s also often included in cleansers and anti-ageing products, as well as lip balms and sun protection products to provide additional hydration and improve the product’s texture.”

– Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme, Skin Expert and founder of Adonia Medical Clinic

What are the benefits of squalane and squalene for the skin?

“Squalane and squalene are both excellent emollients that help to hydrate and moisturise the skin and restore the skin barrier, preventing trans epidermal water loss and keeping the skin soft, smooth, and supple. They also have natural antioxidant properties, which help protect the skin from free radicals and oxidative stress. Free radicals can lead to premature ageing, skin damage, and inflammation. By neutralizing free radicals, squalane/ squalene help reduce the signs of aging and promote healthier-looking skin.

“Because they have a small molecular size, the ingredients can penetrate deep into the skin. This enables them to be effective carriers for other ingredients and deliver superb results.

“Additionally, they can promote skin cell regeneration and renewal by maintaining the skin’s barrier function, supporting the skin’s natural exfoliation process and improving the overall texture of the skin. It is also noncomedogenic, meaning it does not clog pores, and it has a lightweight, nongreasy texture that makes it suitable for a wide range of skin types.

“Finally, they have also been found to aid the wound healing process and promote skin regeneration, reduce inflammation, and improve the appearance of scars.”

– Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme, Skin Expert and founder of Adonia Medical Clinic

What are the benefits of squalane and squalene for Afro textures?

“Afro hair has a distinctive structure that makes it prone to dryness and frizz. Squalane’s molecular structure closely resembles the skin’s natural sebum, making it an excellent emollient that locks in moisture. When applied to Afro hair, squalane forms a protective barrier that prevents moisture loss, leaving the hair softer, smoother, and more manageable. This enhanced hydration not only improves the hair’s appearance but also supports overall hair health.

“One of the unique challenges of afro and textured hair care is finding products that provide sufficient moisture without weighing down the hair. Squalane is a lightweight oil that penetrates the hair shaft without causing build-up or heaviness. This characteristic is especially beneficial for afro hair, which tends to be denser and more delicate. By delivering nutrients directly to the hair’s core, squalane ensures that every strand receives the nourishment it needs.”

– Jacqui McIntosh, Avlon UK European Education Director

What skin and hair types are squalene and squalane suitable for?

“Squalene and squalane are both generally very well tolerated by most skin types, making them a versatile and universally beneficial ingredient. However, as they are excellent moisturisers and emollients, they are particularly appropriate for those who have dry, dehydrated, ageing or sensitive skin.

“Squalane and squalene also have anti-inflammatory properties that can soothe and calm the skin. They help reduce redness, irritation, and sensitivity, making them suitable for individuals with sensitive or reactive skin.”

– Dija Ayodele, Author of Black Skin