The toxic truth about synthetic hair extensions

Synthetic hair could be harming black women and we deserve answers.

05/08/2025

This year we’ve seen a slew of troubling headlines on synthetic braiding hair. A report released by Consumer Reports (consumerreports.org) revealed that synthetic hair extensions contain high levels of lead and carcinogens. With braids being the metaphorical bedrock of protective styling, the report highlighted Black women are the primary users of these products and therefore exposed to serious health risks.

What are synthetic hair extensions made of?

Braided synthetic hair extensions are designed to mimic the look and texture of stretched afro hair. They are constructed with man-made fibres made from chemicals such as modacrylic and vinyl chloride. Occasional contact with these chemicals are usually harmless but longer periods can cause concern. “Typically, women wear braids for four to six weeks. This level of exposure to these chemicals is substantial, and therefore, worthy of investigation in my opinion,” says celebrity hairdresser Lorraine Dublin.

After testing 10 reputable braiding brands, Consumer Reports’ scientists found volatile organic compounds (VOCs) along with lead and multiple carcinogens. “Two products contained an animal carcinogen, and all the other samples contained the carcinogen methylene chloride… a solvent used in various industrial processes and can be found in some aerosol and pesticide products”, wrote James E. Rogers, PHD, who headed the research.

The science behind synthetic hair toxins

As alarming as these findings sound – and make no mistake, they are concerning – it’s important to offer more context so you can be empowered to make the right decision with your protective styling choices. Before commencing the report, Rogers and his team had three potential exposure considerations to explore: inhalation, skin contact, and ingestion. This line of testing focused on ingesting synthetic hair. Although this may not be an obvious choice, the reasoning was based on younger children who wear braids tend to put their hair extensions in their mouths. And sometimes, braiders keep pieces of hair in their mouths for convenience when installing.

According to the report, VOCs are released when the synthetic hair is dipped in boiling water (a method often applied by braiders to seal the ends of the hair), and inhaling such toxins can cause irritation to the eyes and throat, nausea, and in some cases cause cancer.

However, there are disputes about the methodology applied in the study. In a video that has garnered over 74K views and over 1640 comments on TikTok, cosmetic chemist Javon Ford (@javonford16), highlighted several shortcomings in the testing. Small sample sizes and opting to test oral exposure instead of dermal exposure (after all, people don’t intentionally eat their braids), means more research needs to be carried out to gauge a full understanding of the true risks.

Speaking exclusively to Spell Magazine, Rani Ghosh, a toxicologist who specialises primarily in the cosmetics industry echoed the same sentiment for extended testing: “The study compared the detected chemical levels to safety thresholds designed for ingestion (like eating or drinking). However, synthetic hair is worn, not eaten, and the main exposure routes are through skin contact or inhalation.

“To test for chemical release, the researchers submerged hair samples in boiling water (100°C/212°F) for 10 minutes. Although some people dip braids in hot water, it’s usually for a much shorter time. This lab method is much more extreme than real-world use and likely exaggerates the amount of chemicals released.

“While the study highlights the presence of certain chemicals in some synthetic braiding hair, its methodological limitations, unrealistic exposure scenarios, and use of inappropriate regulatory standards mean the results cannot be directly translated into actual consumer risk. More comprehensive, peer-reviewed research is needed before drawing any firm conclusions about potential hazards from synthetic hair products. Otherwise, you’re leaving the consumer with anxiety over risks that might not even exist.”

What are the options?

Since the report was published by Consumer Reports, shockwaves have been sent across the internet, with thousands of women voicing concerns: “This is why we’ve seen so many issues on the scalp of Black kids and women for years!”,” wrote a lady on Instagram. Meanwhile, another woman on TikTok shared a video saying: “My body immediately rebukes braiding hair when I use it. I’ve had to find ways to clean it multiple times before using it! It’s not just an itch yall- it’s toxic!”

In the quest to finding alternatives or even solutions the options are limited. Bulk human hair has become a frontrunner for achieving popular protective styles. “To install boho or goddess braids the trend right now is to use human hair but remember there are different grades of human hair to consider,’ says Aisha Ibrahim brand ambassador for Spell Beauty. “Some manufacturers treat human hair with a protective coating to keep the hair fresh and shiny. However, raw virgin hair does not undergo chemical processes. Even though it is sold in its natural stage and is less toxic, I always advise customers to cleanse the hair before installing.”

To go completely toxin-free, plant-based braiding hair made from banana or corn fibers is steadily gaining traction. Not only are they considered a safer option, the appeal of being sustainable (typically the fibers are biodegradable) and ethically sourced makes it appealing amongst consumers seeking a conscious approach to their hair and beauty routine. “Brands like Rebundle, Ruka and Kynd Hair have formulated an exciting new generation of braiding hair,” says celebrity hairdresser Lorraine Dublin. “Made from quality plant-based fibers which has hypoallergenic properties, this material promotes scalp health and comfort when wearing styles for weeks.”

It’s worth noting, however, compared to synthetic hair both human and plant-based hair come with a premium price tag. To put it in perspective, one pack of human braiding hair starts from £30, whilst a pack of X-Pression retails for £4.49

How to care for synthetic hair

Salon owner and braid specialist, Shayna Dawes, founder of Braid Bar Ldn says customers have become worried about the potential health issues since the report. “Some clients have expressed concern about the safety of synthetic hair extensions, while others have enquired about alternatives such as toxin-free synthetic options like Ruwa or using 100% human hair. We are taking additional precautions such as suggesting our customers wash all synthetic hair prior to installation using an apple cider vinegar rinse to help remove chemical coatings.”

Jacqui Mcintosh, trichologist and European Education Director for Avlon, emphasises the need for customers to pay close attention to how synthetic hair interacts with their hair and scalp. “While synthetic hair offers versatility, accessibility, and creative expression, it’s important to recognise the potential challenges it can pose, especially when not used with proper care and understanding. A common concern I encounter (with synthetic hair braid wearers) is scalp irritation. Synthetic fibres are often coated with chemicals that enhance durability or make them flame-retardant. For many individuals, particularly those with sensitive skin, these coatings can provoke inflammation. What is often dismissed as ‘normal itching’ may in fact be an early sign of irritation or an allergic reaction, particularly when tight installation methods are used.”

What’s next?

The line between informed caution and fearmongering can be difficult to define. While this study has created some much-needed dialogue about the safety of hair products marketed at Black women, it’s clear to see that more research is needed, and perhaps most importantly contextualised. In the meantime, it is best to take a mindful approach to synthetic hair with an emphasised focus on maintenance and regular scalp care.