When it comes to contemporary fashion in the UK, it’s impossible to measure the impact of designers from the diaspora. From Althea McNish, a member of the Windrush generation and the first internationally renowned Black British textile designer, whose widely lauded work features in none other than the Victoria and Albert Museum; to Andrew Ramroop, a distinguished tailor and the first Black business owner on Savile Row, whose academy aims to keep traditional British tailoring alive—there are countless talents, without whom the face of fashion in the UK would look very different.
But what about the history that’s being made today? While no one can predict the future, the thought of witnessing a young star in the making—especially one who’s Black and British—is very exciting. If there’s smugness in saying, “I knew they were going to make it big,” about a once up-and-coming designer, then prepare to call us out, because we’re about to make a whole load of predictions. Grab your seat in the frow (that’s front row, for the uninitiated); the catwalk is about to commence.
The visionaries
Priya Ahluwalia
Few designers are able to combine sustainability, heritage and storytelling with the finesse of Priya Ahluwalia. Born in London to Indian and Nigerian parents, her multicultural background sits at the heart of her eponymous label. Since its launch in 2018, Ahluwalia has become known for giving vintage and surplus materials a new life.
Bianca Saunders
Bianca Saunders has rapidly become one of the most exciting names in British fashion. A graduate of the Royal College of Art, she launched her label in 2017 and has since carved out a distinctive aesthetic rooted in her British-Caribbean heritage. Saunders reimagines tailoring through fluid silhouettes, body mapping and a refreshingly modern exploration of androgyny.
Tolu Coker
For Tolu Coker, fashion is inseparable from art, activism and identity. A graduate of Central Saint Martins and a former designer at JW Anderson and Maison Margiela, Coker founded her brand in 2021 with a mission: to fuse craft and technology while challenging fashion’s role in society. Her designs are deliberately deconstructed, experimental and often interrogate politics and belonging.
Above, from left to right: Neeraj Knitted Maxi Dress, by Priya Ahluwalia, £650; Cutout Pleated Ramie Mini Shirt Dress, by Tolu Coker, £745; Fruitstand Shirt, by Bianca Saunders, £420
The romantics
Grace Wales Bonner
Grace Wales Bonner has redefined the idea of cultural luxury. Since launching her label in 2014, she has woven European traditions with the histories of the Afro-Atlantic. Initially celebrated for her menswear, Bonner’s exploration of tailoring soon expanded into womenswear, broadening the reach of her vision.
Shanna Bent
Shanna Bent’s Maison Bent offers a different kind of romance: one steeped in glamour, heritage and empowerment. A graduate of both Central Saint Martins and London College of Fashion, Bent honed her skills at names like Roland Mouret and Agent Provocateur before launching her own label. Since its debut in 2020, Maison Bent has become synonymous with occasion wear that radiates strength and sensuality.
Above, from left to right: Theresa Gown, by Maison Bent, £365; The River Shirt, by Wales Bonner, £795
The disruptors
Mowalola Ogunlesi
Mowalola Ogunlesi has become one of the most recognisable names in London’s new wave of designers. A graduate of Central Saint Martins, she debuted with Psychedelic in 2017, a collection that fused Nigerian psychedelic rock influences with an exploration of identity and desire. Her work sits at the intersection of youth culture, queerness and Afrocentric pride, rendered in materials like PVC and leather that push against convention.
Ashley Lloyd
Ashley Lloyd approaches fashion with the same audacity, but from a very personal perspective. Growing up in South London in a household led by matriarchs, Lloyd was immersed in the power of clothing as self-expression – particularly how style could accentuate and empower the female form. These early influences inform his label today, where bold designs celebrate strength and individuality.
Above, from left to right: Anti K Jeans Cheetah, by Mowalola, £400; 2-layer Collar Skirt, by Ashley Lloyd, £1345
The new wave
Atiya
After completing an architecture degree, Atiya redirected her creative eye towards fashion, founding Akino, a slow-fashion label producing ethically in London and Portugal. The brand focuses on small-batch drops, combining sustainability with inclusivity in sizing. Inspired by the Space Age and retrofuturism, Akino pieces are built to last, designed as timeless staples that strike the balance between statement-making and everyday wear.
Mary-Ann Msengi
Few new labels have risen as fast as Farai London. Founded by Mary-Ann Msengi in 2020 after graduating from the Royal College of Art, the brand quickly gained recognition for its unapologetically sexy cut-out dresses and bold prints. Launching in the midst of the pandemic, Farai London’s timing was impeccable, offering women show-stopping looks just as nightlife reopened. Within a year, her pieces were stocked at Selfridges and Revolve, and a roster of celebrity fans followed.
Above, from left to right: Akino, coming soon; Nakai Ring Cutout Maxi Dress, by Farai London, £175
