The skin around our eyes is often the first area to reveal signs of ageing, stress and sun damage, yet it’s one of the most overlooked parts of many skincare routines. From dark circles and puffiness to fine lines and UV protection, understanding how to care for this delicate area can make a significant difference over time.
We spoke with Nadeira Rickford, Vice President of Product Development at AlumierMD, about the science behind eye care, the ingredients worth looking for, and the habits that can help keep the eye area looking healthy and resilient for years to come.
What led you to pursue a career in skincare?
While I was attending university, I took a part-time job for a skincare company working in their customer service department and selling product in their shop. I loved the science behind the products and the way it made women and men feel more confident when their skincare products worked. After I graduated, I gradually worked my way through the company, first being an account manager for distributors, travelling to international sales teams to conduct product training, working with our PR company and then eventually product development. I was fortunate to get experience in all aspects of the business which helped to inform my work in development. I have spent over 25 years in the business, and I love what I do!
How did you get into skincare product development?
It was a small company so there was a lot of collaboration with cross functional teams. I was very curious about development, so I spent a lot of time with our product team, even when I was in other positions. Eventually an opportunity opened and then I took a very hands-on approach to learn everything I could about all aspects of development. You need to know more than just ingredients and formulating, you need to know marketing trends, product positioning, your competitors, your customers, public relations, packaging and supply chain. As a developer, I work with team members across the business who all contribute to producing a successful product.
Knowing what goes into high quality skincare products, are there any common ingredients you’d never use on your skin?
I have eczema so I generally stay away from a few ingredients that cause me sensitivity – methylisothiazolinone, sulfates and formaldehyde-releasing preservatives are used in a lot of products, particularly hand soaps so I must review ingredient lists carefully. These ingredients are also never used in our formulations and are part of a long list of ingredients we avoid.
When you were formulating the AlumierMD Eye Cream, what specific concerns around the eye area were you most determined to address?
I am from Guyana and I am of mixed heritage with Black, east Asian, Portuguese and English ancestry so I suffer from dark circles. I was so self conscious that I wouldn’t go to the gym without wearing concealer. AluminEye® was developed to address this issue, and it was important to me that it provide immediate brightening (soft-focus light reflectors) with long term results so the formula includes specialized peptides and Niacinamide. It also had to be deeply hydrating so we incorporated Tremella Mushroom and Murumuru Butter. This formulation took 12 iterations to get right, but it was worth it as I no longer go to the gym with concealer on!
The skin around our eyes is so delicate – what actually makes it different from the rest of the face?
The skin around our eyes is up to four times thinner than the rest of the face which means blood vessels are more visible and this causes the appearance of dark circles. It also has fewer sebaceous glands and is more prone to dryness. This area is highly vascularized, which can cause puffiness and fluid retention. In addition, both voluntary and involuntary eye movement leads to faster development of fine lines and wrinkles.
In summer especially, how important are sunglasses for protecting the skin around the eyes?
Because the skin around the eyes is thin and delicate, sunglasses are critical for protection from UV-induced damage as well as skin cancers like basal or squamous cell carcinoma. It is best to work with your eye care professional to choose sunglasses that offer 100% UVA/UVB protection and cover the appropriate surface area. It is also important to wear sunglasses year-round as sunlight reflects off snow and ice. Sunglasses are an essential part of a complete facial skin-care routine that should include extended protection from damaging external threats like pollution, IR, HEV and ozone.
What can happen to the eye area over time if it’s repeatedly exposed to UV without protection?
Repeated, unprotected UV exposure is cumulative and can cause premature aging, pigmentation changes, inflammation which can lead to sensitivities, and potentially, skin cancer.
Should we be wearing SPF around the eyes every day, or can that area be too sensitive for certain sunscreens?
Yes, you should be applying sunscreen around your eyes daily to avoid potential damage. While this area is sensitive, you can minimize this by choosing mineral-based sunscreens (zinc oxide or titanium dioxide) as these are less likely to sting or irritate the mucous membranes around the eyes compared to some chemical filters.
For someone in their late 20s or 30s who wants to maintain youthful-looking eyes, what habits would you recommend starting now?
The focus should be on protecting the delicate, thin skin around the eyes from sun and environmental damage, maintaining hydration to prevent fine lines, and proper cleansing. Key habits include daily sunscreen, using targeted eye creams, incorporating retinol and protecting your eyes from strain. Here are some additional tips:
- Removing makeup gently and never sleeping with it on.
- Stop smoking to avoid the breakdown of collagen and elastin which accelerates skin aging.
- Wear sunglasses with 100% UV protection whenever outdoors to prevent squinting and protect the skin from sun damage.
- Get quality sleep to allow the skin to repair itself.
What are the most common mistakes people make when applying eye products?
Not using specialized products for the eye area – not all products formulated for the face can be used around the eye area as they sometimes use higher levels of actives that can cause increased sensitivity.
Tugging and pulling the eye area which can stretch the skin, causing premature fine lines and potentially broken blood vessels – use your ring finger to gently pat product around the orbital bone, avoiding rubbing or tugging.
Applying product too close to the eye – applying product directly to the lower lash line or onto the eyelid can cause product to migrate into the eye, causing burning, irritation, and in some cases, puffy, swollen eyes the next morning. Instead, apply products to the orbital bone (the bony ridge around the eye) and let it naturally distribute.
How should our approach to eye care (and skincare more broadly) change as we move through our 40s, 50s and beyond?
As we mature, we must shift from prevention to a combination of targeted repair, intensive hydration and collagen support. This transition is driven by a natural, hormonal-related decline in collagen and oil production as well as cell turnover. Skin becomes thinner, drier and less elastic leading to more pronounced wrinkles and loss of firmness. Look for ingredients like peptides to boost collagen and hyaluronic acid to plump skin. Shift to more hydrating cleansers and nourishing moisturizers that respect the skin barrier.
Utilizing products in our core four essentials protects the skin against Oxidative Aging, a modern environmental skin condition caused by exposure to UV, pollution, blue light, infrared radiation, and daily lifestyle stressors. Over time, this constant exposure overwhelms the skin’s repair mechanisms, driving inflammation, barrier breakdown and accelerated visible aging.
- EverActive C&E® + Peptide – provides daily antioxidant defence, wrinkle and inflammation reduction, and visible brightening in just 56 days (as seen in a clinical study)
- Alumience A.G.E. – defends against the advanced stages of aging, glycation, and provides pollution defence for aging skin.
- Retinol Resurfacing Serum 0.5 – provides nightly cellular regeneration and structural support while respecting the skin barrier
- Clear Shield SPF 30 or Sheer Hydration SPF 30 – Provides antioxidants support, shields the skin from UV rays and pollution and protects the skin from the damaging effects of HEV and IR-A.
If you could give just one piece of advice for keeping the eye area healthy and resilient long term, what would it be?
Consistency is key. Maintaining a good skincare routine and lifestyle habits translates into healthier skin. I am convinced this is why my skin still glows!
