Hairstylist April Kayganich had a challenging relationship with her curls growing up and started cutting her own hair at the age of just 10. Even before her teenage years, she already knew that most hairdressers wouldn’t know how to handle her curls, so it was only natural that years later, she dedicated her life to the curly cause and became skilled in the profession.
At 28, April got her Cosmetology license and today, she is based in New York but sees clients from across the globe. April’s relationship with Hairstory came about organically – a salon she rented a chair from introduced her to the range and she soon discovered the benefits of Hairstory’s ‘less is more’ approach.
Now, April uses an edited range of Hairstory products including hair cleansers and styling products to best serve her curly clients. Here are some of her top tips…
What are some of the most common hair complaints amongst your clients?
1. Definition: A lot of people haven’t yet identified the porosity of the hair and this essentially means the hair’s ability to absorb water. Those with low porosity struggle the most with definition but those with high porosity can struggle too, it’s just that the cause it different. Low porosity hair (which can be fine, medium or coarse) is protein sensitive and for this, I suggest using New Wash (Rich) to wash the hair as it’s great for opening up the cuticle.
High porosity hair can be due to color damage and will have holes in the cuticle which need to be filled. I’d recommend using Hair Balm which has some protein, but not too much and is great for filling in these holes.
2. Product Build-Up: This is very common within the curl community because Co-Washing aka washing only with conditioner is popular, but this doesn’t tend to remove product build up. I’d recommend two things. 1. Washing with Hairstory’s New Wash which is free from suds, but which still cleans the hair and 2. Eliminating products that contain silicones and heavy oils. When you use more natural products, like those within Hairstory’s line, you won’t get product build up.
Another reason for product build-up can be due to washing not being thorough enough and this occurs with those who have particularly high-density hair. To help clean the hair deeply, section the hair when
you wash it and use a scalp brush to help create the friction that helps to clean. You can even take two scalp brushes and scrub both sides at once.
3. Shrinkage: Shrinkage sometimes happens with definition and it’s due to moisture in the hair so in that sense, it isn’t a bad thing as it’s a sign of healthy hair. However, for those with very dry hair/where you cannot even identify where the curl is, you need to hydrate the hair a lot more. Get it super wet in the shower, apply New Wash (Rich) and then lock in that moisture with Hair Balm but remember to apply this to WET HAIR.
What’s the best way to keep natural hair moisturised? And do we need more moisture in the winter? How do you recommend caring for curls in the cold weather?
Winter is one of the harshest times for curly hair because it is naturally drier that other hair types and the cuticle looks different. Our sebaceous glands produce oil but in curly hair, this doesn’t travel down the hair as easily as it does with straight hair, so my top tips include using a lot of water before applying your products.
Also, there is no need to use a microfiber towel after the shower/before styling because that will draw moisture out – Use that water to your advantage. Also, use a rich cream post-wash like Hair Balm and I also like to use LIFT as a gel. When you spray into onto the hair it creates a cast on the curls and gives more hold.
Would you recommend using a clarifier to reduce product build up?
It’s better to eliminate the use of products which are causing product build up in the first place. Many silicones aren’t water soluble so wont lift out of the hair well. That said, if you need a deeper cleanse, try New Wash (Deep) which has Apple Cider Vinegar for extra cleansing power. A couple of times a month, use this on the root and use New Wash (Rich) on the ends. The great thing about this is that the longer it’s left on, it will work to detangle your hair which is pretty unheard of for a cleansing product.
What is the difference between New Wash Original and New Wash (Rich)?
New Wash (Rich) has a higher concentration of oils so its thicker and creamer. Many curly haired clients love New Wash Original and stick with this product but also love New Wash (Rich) when they try it. If hair is on the finer side, the Original might be perfect for you but for coarser hair, New Wash (Rich) tends to be a better fit.
Think of the texture of your hair as opposed to the curl pattern. Some with tight coil curls still use New Wash Original or even New Wash (Deep) because their hair is fine. I use all variants for different benefits, but New Wash (Rich) is my preferred variant most of the time.
You’ve talked about leaving New Wash in for a long time in the shower, how about overnight?
No, I wouldn’t recommend this because it contains protein, which is very beneficial, but which is an ingredient to be used carefully. 30mins is sufficient.
How can I keep moisture in my hair post wash day? It gets dry on day 3/4.
There are unintentional expectations put on us with textured hair and one of those is that hair should be shiny, but our hair shafts are not going to have this, so our ‘moisturized and healthy’ status is going be more of a ‘feel’ than a look, as it is with straight hair.
Curls with good definition will show less frizz which is a sign of being moisturized and it can take a while to get hair into the healthy state where moisture is retained through the week. When you have a consistent routine, your hair will become in a better condition and for those who are embarking on a natural journey, it can take 6 months to 2 years to achieve optimum hair health.
To retain moisture, the first step is including having a good base and setting up your style.
In the shower, get all your hair wet and apply New Wash (Rich) from roots to ends. Leave on for 20 minutes if you can so that the steam can get to it. Once you’ve washed New Wash (Rich) out, part the hair where you wear it and section with clips. Ensure water coats your hair – you’ll know when you have applied enough as you’ll get a glisten. This is when you apply Hair Balm and rake through.
Once you’re done, don’t squeeze any water out or use a towel! Just air dry or diffuse depending on preference.
If you haven’t already, get yourself a mirror for the shower and keep your stylers here too as this is where the magic happens.
Some people tend to spritz their hair with water/product a few days after washing. I prefer to wash again and restyle. Using New Wash won’t strip the hair so there is no concern about washing on day three/four and restyling.
Why do I lose my curls at the root after day one?
This can be due to hair being put up overnight. Try not to use a scrunchie but instead, opt for a wrap/pillowcase such as those by Silke London.
Also, use Undressed/Lift when styling on day one and focus on the root. Spray from about 4-6 inches away from the root for texture and to ‘roughen’ it up. This will help to hold that curl a little more.
Lastly, for those that have this problem, I have an in-shower tip. When you are in the shower and styling (after parting your hair where you want to wear it), lean forward and take one finger at a time to rake water through – this encourages more coiling at the root. In this case, you can take out a little water either with a microfiber towel or squeezing and this is to stop it from becoming weighed down. I don’t usually advocate removing water from the hair but in these instances, it can be tricky to preserve root/nape curls.
What’s the best way to cut natural hair? Wet or Dry?
This depends on the style you are going for, but I prefer to cut dry. I want my clients to come in with freshly washed hair so that I can see all the curl patters and the hair isn’t stretched out. Sometimes, cutting wet can lead to ‘shelf’ look. Once hair is hydrated, curls will have some level of shrinkage so us stylists still need to be careful when cutting dry. 99% of the time I cut on dry hair, unless somebody has very loose curls.
How often do you recommend washing your hair/roots while your hair is in a protective style? And which Hairstory product would you suggest for this use particularly?
I like my clients to wear their protective styles for four weeks or six if they must. Please don’t wait eight weeks or more. In the four-week scenario, wash on week two but do this carefully – some people straighten their hair before it gets braided and if this is the case, washing can result in frizz coming through.
Take New Wash (Deep), dilute in a spray bottle and mist roots/parting. Then take fingers to gently rub along the hair before rinsing out. Squeeze water out and wrap in a microfiber towel until it dries. If your scalp starts to itch between washes, you could dilute New Wash (Deep) and mist the roots, massage and if needed, massage a little Hair Balm too.
When should oils be applied on natural hair – prior to or during washing and/or as a daily treatment?
I try and get my clients to steer clear of oils because Hair Balm is enough. It features Jojoba Oil which is hydrating yet lightweight and almost mimics the natural oils we have. It’s also easy to get out of the hair when washing.
If you must use an oil, opt only for Jojoba and apply to dry hair on the second or third day.
Top tips for color placement within textured hair?
I like painting radial patterns / diamonds in the hair. Most clients want volume, or a rounded cut and these patterns lend themselves well with a very natural look. Softer placements with different shapes allow for the hair to grow out nicely and gives the client less maintenance.
You’ve talked about how much you love the New Wash Hair Cleansers and Hair Balm is your holy grail product, but you also use LIFT, a thickening spray. How is this best used with textured hair?
Those with textured hair often use Gel but Hairstory doesn’t have one and this is in line with their philosophy that top stylists only need a handful of products if they really work and if they are versatile. This is where LIFT comes in – it allows me to apply hold to curls and eliminates the need for a gel. It’s also particularly great when paired with Hair Balm.
When hair is damp, I spritz hair generously with Lift and then I’ll pop clients under the hood dryer for 20 mins before diffusing. LIFT is great for hold as a cast. I’m kind of breaking the rules with this one but it’s super effective!
Silk wraps are popular. How can silk wraps benefit textured hair specifically?
Falling asleep with curly hair can be a nightmare especially if you have cotton pillowcases which pull at the hair, absorb moisture and result in frizz. I don’t use cotton pillowcases for the same reason I don’t use a cotton towel. Hydration is great for curls and sleeping with a silk head wrap is a great way to keep frizz/matting/tangles at bay. Lots of people choose to tip their hair upside down (pineapple) and then pop on the wrap.
I currently use a mousse in my routine. Will Hairstory be launching a mousse/foam?
Interestingly, a lot of the ingredients that are typically found in mousse are found in LIFT, albeit in a more natural form. Volumizing root sprays tend to have a lot of alcohol but this isn’t great for curls, so LIFT features a concentrated essential oil base with other ingredients like Hydrolyzed Quinoa and a Polymer duo. These give that retention and hold alongside conditioning benefit that you wouldn’t necessarily get from a mousse. Using heat (a diffuser) can also help activate the polymers.
Some Hairstory stylists mix half Hair Balm with half water and use this as a spray – Hair Balm is so concentrated that blending with water provides a brilliant curl retention product. Hair Balm can also be scrunched into the hair and then sprayed with LIFT for some great curl results.
Follow @_thehalfrican and @hairstorystudio on Instagram.
