People of colour have long been underserved by the SPF market, which is something that Mélasun addresses with its new range of sun-care products developed specifically for melanin-rich skin. However, these products don’t just serve a practical purpose – they do it in style. Who said sun-care can’t have the luxe aesthetic that we see so often in skincare and other cosmetics?
Founder, Marina Camu, spotted this gap in the market and used her experience – 20 years in the FMCG sector working with respected companies such as Procter & Gamble, Philips, Revolution Beauty and MAESA – and knowledge of supply planning, production management and logistics, to develop her dream brand.
Here, she talks about why modern individuals are more exposed to UV rays than they were decades ago, the misconceptions surrounding black skin and sun-care, and the dangers of blue light, which comes from our phone, tablet and computer screens.
Tell us about your career background and how this led to Mélasun’s launch?
Having a seat at a strategic table, I had opportunities in C-Suite to reflect on gaps within the beauty industry. I quickly realised the structure of most big companies couldn’t support and reach unheard consumers easily, especially black communities, plus leverage growth and innovation for products focused on rich melanin skins.
These conversations led to growing frustration. I was deeply unhappy and fought aggressively everyday with my peers over and over on everything concerning Sales and Operation. I had to reckon my anger was rooted in the deep desire to lead my own organisation and my passion for change.
That’s how I decided to launch my structure and build a team to bolster continual advancement in beauty for underserved consumers, enhance product development and operational efficiency, ensuring exceptional products to reach all communities.
What inspired you to create Mélasun, and why did you choose to focus specifically on suncare for melanin-rich skin?
While collecting data, I quickly realised the sun-care space was just boring and still lacked ability to respond to the needs of people of colour, and fails to embrace the new lifestyle changes which deeply impact our sun protection beauty routines. For example, just 40 years ago, it was so inappropriate for most women to just work out, go for a run outside, or expose themselves for long hours under the sun. Their granddaughters can do all of that now, but did the industry correctly address this lifestyle? Did we as industry understand correctly the need of mature consumers, especially women who changed their sun-care habits? There was a huge opportunity to change the status quo and create something fresh and new, which inspires all people.
What’s the biggest misconception about Black skin and sun-care?
To believe there is a lack of education in black community. I vividly remember, my parents rubbing my face with all type of hydrating cream for protection and warning me against sun damage from a very young age. We know how to protect our skin – it’s our lifestyles which changed. We need to see products which respect our beauty legacy and history, which correspond to our new lifestyle, enhance and hydrate our skin. Not just making sure there’s no white cast after sun-care application.
How does the difference in UVA and SPF protection impact our skin, and should we prioritise one over the other?
UV are ultraviolet lights generated by the sun and are classed in several categories. UVA and UVB are the sun’s nonvisible lights; you can detect them by the feel of heat on your skin whether it’s sunny or cloudy outside. They are responsible for hyperpigmentation, skin ageing, sun burn and in the worst-case scenario, skin diseases like cancer. Their negative effects can manifest in the long term, sometimes 20 years can pass between a sunburn and a skin disease’s first manifestation.
Not all skin reacts the same to UVA/UVB; every shade – even melanin-rich – can be vulnerable if not well protected. Natural skin defence is like a capital we all have at birth, which will decrease according to our behaviours and beauty protection routines. When this capital runs out, that’s when problems appear for every skin colour.
Sunscreen contains SPF which limits sun damage. It’s the Sun Protector Factor calculated in lab, which determines the time needed to get a sunburn after cream application. In practice, if you use an SPF 10, it would mean you can spend 100 minutes being protected before sun damage. That’s when you would need to re-apply your cream. SPF ingredients will absorb or reflect UV rays – the higher the SPF, the more UV will be filtered by the SPF.
What is the best SPF number for darker skin and why?
Every shade needs protection, that’s a fact. Exposure to UV also affects melanin-rich skin. The SPF number chosen will depend on the general state of your skin, your environment and activities. To have a satisfying level of protection for daily to moderate activities (a commute, an hour’s walk, a run), apply a minimum of SPF30, which will protect a broad spectrum of skin shades. For anyone with a skin condition, I would suggest consulting your GP or dermatologist beforehand to choose the right SPF number and product.
Can you tell us about the development of your flagship product and what makes it unique in the sun-care space?
My team and I spent a lot of time understanding what consumers want in a sunscreen product today, besides no white cast. With our first consumers panel, I discovered lots of them wanted to feel protected and hydrated. For them, a good looking, healthy, glowy skin result was very important, with a non-greasy feeling too.
With my Product Development leader, we spent a lot of time working on the lab formulation brief and non-negotiables (Sustainability, production ethics, sourcing). I partnered with an amazing well-established local lab specialised in suncare formulation. They developed formulations which combine a range of SPF levels, adaptable to a broad spectrum, with skin enhancement ingredients to ensure a good hydration level.
Mélasun’s products also shield skin from blue light damage. Why was it important for you to include this feature, and how does it benefit melanin-rich skin?
The latest research shows a growing concern about blue light, which is a visible light present in sunlight (as ultraviolet), smartphones and electronic devices. They make up around 35% of the sun’s electromagnetic radiation. When they are absorbed by the skin, they generate free radicals and breakdown collagen and may provoke hyperpigmentation.
What were some of the biggest challenges you faced while formulating products that cater specifically to darker skin tones?
To get access to scientific data on darker skin tones to conduct our research for product development. It has been a very long process to gather the right information to process and guide the product team to reach the right solution. Due to the lack of information, I had to first build a panel of potential consumers and consult local dermatologists to have reliable data.
The impact on the development has been huge as I’ve had to push back the Mèlasun launch twice already. It helps me to understand how important it is to connect and discuss with our future clients to build a proper research data base, which serves innovation and brings the best to the market. Behind the scenes, I’m working with data scientists to find new ways to obtain this key information and ensure Mèlasun will continue to propose new solutions adapted to darker skin tones.
How does Mélasun’s mission reflect your personal career journey?
I always had a holistic approach to my career. It was very important for me to get 360-degree expertise. I spent 14 years working in manufacturing sites, sourcing the ingredients, testing, producing, and distributing products to shops. The last six years have been very focused on strategic planning in sales and finance, plus collaborating with those who curate the concepts as marketers.
I’m very grateful for everything I learned in terms of how to build and run a legacy brand at an international scale. Now, with all these experiences, I can do it for consumers who look like me. To bring to the market a thoughtful and strong brand such as Mèlasun is a great source of pride and joy.
What are your hopes and goals for Mélasun, and how do you see the brand evolving in the next five years?
First, to make our customers happy to finally have a sunscreen which is right for their needs. A brand which resonates with who they are and where they come from. I have big ambitions for the brand, I want Mèlasun to have an international presence and be accessible in main retail points in UK and US. I would love the brand to have a significant print in Africa too. We are already back in the lab developing exciting new products for 2026 – with a twist! There are lots exciting things to come and I can’t wait to share more.
Look out for the launch by following Mélasun on Instagram.
