These women aren’t just making moves in business – they’re rewriting the rules. From pioneering textured haircare in department stores to shaking up the drinks industry and transforming beauty for melanated skin, these entrepreneurs are proving that innovation isn’t just about filling gaps; it’s about creating space where none existed before.
Judy Koloko fought to bring high-end textured haircare to Selfridges, Beverley and Jayne are redefining what it means to sip in style, Noelly Michoux is breaking the cycle of performative inclusivity in skincare, and Marina Camu is on a mission to make sun protection as inclusive as beauty itself. They’ve all faced barriers, but instead of backing down, they’ve built businesses that challenge outdated norms and demand better.
Here’s how they did it, and why their success matters.
Judy Koloko CEO & founder, The Steam Bar
The Steam Bar A.K.A The Sanctuary (located in Selfridges) is touted as the first textured hair salon within a department store in Europe. What challenges did you face in bringing this vision to life?
Sometimes I wake up and I think about what possessed me to go down this road, but that feeling never lasts long because I understand that this work is needed and it’s bigger than me.
One of the first major challenges was fundraising. I knew from the beginning what elements The Steam Bar had to have in play to make it stand out and be effective and those were going to be costly. I’ve had conversations with department stores where they say they’ve got one black haircare brand and they’re not able to bring in more because they’re struggling to attract the textured hair consumer as it is. I’ve been told a myriad of reasons as to why The Steam Bar or black hair products don’t work in their space and it’s totally understandable. I don’t take offense; I just moved on until I found retail partners who got it and were as excited about it as I am and were willing to work with me to make it work.
There are so many trials and tribulations; things that you could not even imagine that come into play, but I choose to just keep digging and going, as it’s about me creating something that’s setting the standards for where the black hair care industry needs to go. So even though it is trying at times and sometimes I really do feel like God is testing me, ultimately I know what we’re going to create and when we come out the other end we will do nothing but feel extremely proud of what we have achieved.
Beverley and Jayne CEO & founders, Afrique Vodka
Female entrepreneurs are increasingly entering the alcoholic drinks industry. What do you think makes this space attractive for women in business?
One of the biggest draws for women is the fact that the alcoholic drinks industry has traditionally been male-dominated. This alone makes it incredibly enticing for women eager to break barriers and change the game, which also drives us to succeed.
By stepping into this industry, women can challenge the status quo and bring fresh perspectives that have been missing for far too long. The opportunity to shake things up and create authentic brands like Afrique Vodka, which reflect unique stories, is truly empowering. Plus, with growing consumer demand for diversity and innovation, now is the perfect time for women to showcase their creativity and cultural heritage.
We also love how collaboration and mentorship among female entrepreneurs are becoming the norm. So, if you’re thinking of making a career change seek help and advice from someone already in it. This supportive environment encourages women to take bold steps and fosters a sense of mutual support that makes navigating this dynamic industry even more exciting. For us, being part of transforming a traditionally male arena into a diverse and inclusive space is one of the most rewarding aspects of this journey.
Women bring unique perspectives to every industry, but particularly in the alcoholic drinks sector. Our emphasis on storytelling and authenticity allows us to create genuine connections with consumers who seek relatable brands.
We also prioritise collaboration and community-building, fostering relationships that lead to innovative partnerships. Additionally, women often focus on sustainability and healthconscious options, reshaping product offerings to meet evolving consumer preferences. By infusing creativity and empathy into our work, we’re driving fresh ideas, redefining branding strategies, and creating diverse products that reflect a broader range of tastes and experiences.
Noelly Michoux, CEO & co-founder, 4.5.6 Skin
Many consumers feel that inclusivity in the skincare industry stops at marketing, with product development and testing not extending to Black and Brown skin. What are the biggest obstacles you see in achieving true inclusivity in skincare?
The primary obstacle is legitimising the structural and functional differences among various skin phototypes. The beauty industry predominantly operates on a mass-market, one-size-fits-all model. Recognising that darker skin has different needs requires a complete 360-degree mindset shift. Implementing these differences in R&D and testing demands investments that mainstream brands are not prepared to make.
Moreover, the incentive for change remains low because performative inclusivity works. Testing for active ingredients is conducted on Caucasian or East Asian individuals most of the time, with little data validating efficacy on melanated skin. Yet, melanated skin is targeted in marketing campaigns, women of colour see themselves in mainstream ads and respond with purchase and support.
The industry thus has minimal incentive to do more, and the data backs it up. A 2022 McKinsey report found that 75% of black beauty consumers can be persuaded to purchase products by ads featuring various skin tones across all races. However, black-founded brands capture only 18% of black consumers’ beauty spending. The lack of proven success impacts how much investment these brands can attract, limiting their ability to scale marketing and achieve the financial success needed to invest in more research. It’s a vicious cycle.
Marina Camu, CEO & founder, Mélasun
What inspired you to create Mélasun, and why did you choose to focus specifically on sun-care for melanin-rich skin?
I started my career in France with respected companies such as Procter & Gamble and Philips before moving to London. In my most recent roles, I contributed significantly to well-known brands like Revolution Beauty and beauty incubator MAESA. I have extensive expertise in supply planning, production management and logistics, becoming an operation global director for Europe and Emirates regions. Having a seat at the strategic table, I had opportunities to reflect on gaps within the beauty industry. I quickly realised the structure of most big companies couldn’t support and reach unheard consumers easily especially black communities, plus leverage growth and innovation for products focused on rich melanin skins. These conversations led to growing frustration. I was deeply unhappy and fought aggressively everyday my peers over and over on everything concerning sales and operation. I reckon my anger was rooted in the deep desire to lead my own organisation and my passion for change.
While collecting data, I quickly realised the sun-care space was just boring and lacked the ability to respond to the needs of people of colour. Especially when it came to lifestyle changes. For example, 50 years ago, in certain parts of the world it was inappropriate for women to workout or expose herself for long hours in the sun. Their granddaughters can do all of that now and the industry responds to her needs but have left behind a generation who lack the knowledge and education. There was a huge opportunity to change the status quo and create something which inspires all people. And that’s exactly what I’ve done with Mélasun.
