As the fields of medicine, food and engineering move into a new era with the advancement of biotech – technology that utilises biological systems, living organisms or parts of them, to develop different products – so too does the field of cosmetics.
Biotechnology is nothing new. In fact, baking bread using yeast (an example of a living organism) is one of the oldest ways in which we, as humans, have utilised biotech to enrich our lives. However, whether you consider yourself a sourdoughbaking cottagecore queen, products containing bioactives are likely to find an avenue into your life over the next few years. They may have even graced your bathroom shelf already without you realising.
Fermented skincare and haircare
Take fermentation, the recent skincare craze hailing from Japan. Much like yeast, some of the most popular skincare ingredients on the market are fermented, such as rice water, soybeans and chicory root. These ingredients have appeared in cult products like Curlsmith Super Slip Pre-Wash Primer (£23) designed to protect the hair’s natural moisture barrier using pre-biotic compounds aka good bacteria. Paula’s Choice Earth Sourced Moisturizer (£35), contains a balance of bioferment nutrients to strengthen the lipid barrier (that helps keep the skin’s moisture in, and dirt and microbes out). The desired result is a boost in antioxidants and reduced inflammation.
Paula’s Choice Earth Sourced Moisturizer, £35
Curlsmith Super Slip Pre-Wash Primer, £23
Adaptogens and beauty
But it’s not just about fermentation. Another bioactive you should get to know is the humble mushroom. That’s right – the slimy brown things you’d usually leave on your plate at the end of a full English breakfast, is revolutionising the wellness game. When it comes to skin care you might already be familiar with the trendiest types: lion’s mane, cordyceps and reishi, to name just a few. These mushrooms have adaptogenic qualities, which have been adopted by cosmetics companies for their ability to calm sensitive skin, protect against environmental stressors and reverse signs of ageing. Origins’ Mega- Mushroom Skin Relief Face Cleanser (£32) is a must-have for those with sensitive, spot-prone skin, while Briogeo Color Me Brilliant Mushroom + Bamboo Shampoo (£30) features a blend of turkey tail mushroom and has received rave reviews for bringing flagging hair colour back to life.
BRIOGEO Color Me Brilliant Mushroom + Bamboo Shampoo, £30
Origins Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief Face Cleanser, £32
Marine-inspired cosmetics
While fermentation and adaptogens largely fall under the umbrella of “white biotechnology”, the use of marine organisms, such as algae, seaweed and fish cells are classed as “blue biotechnology”. Many skincare gurus swear by hydrolysed marine collagen, which is usually available in capsule or powder form, á la Wild Nutrition’s Collagen 500 Plus (£35). It’s a powerhouse for the hair and nails, boosting growth and strengthening cells, but its most visible benefits relate to the skin – keeping it plump and glowing! If you prefer the plant-based route, try looking for products with red algae, like The Ordinary’s Marine Hyaluronics (£8.80). This ingredient is primarily used to thicken formulas but also has the ability to help skin retain water, as well as boosting the power of other ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid.
Wild Nutrition Collagen 500 Plus, £35
The Ordinary Marine Hyaluronics, £8.80
Bioactives in makeup
Bioactives aren’t just associated with skin and haircare products – makeup lovers can also get in on the action with foundations and other cosmetics that act like skincare. Haus Labs has not been shy about differentiating itself from competitors with its science-backed formulas. Its Triclone™ Skin Tech Hydrating Concealer (£27) centres around a combination of fermented arnica (a plant in the sunflower family), bio-engineered antioxidants, and a blend of medicinal herbs. What does that mean for us non-tech-literate? Protection from environmental stress, and faster healing from spots and inflammation. Along the same vein, Shiseido’s Synchro Skin Self- Refreshing Custom Finish Powder Foundation (£46) boasts the benefits of wild thyme, a plant known for its polyphenols (micronutrients that have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties), while Ilia Beauty’s Color Block Lipstick (£28) contains rosemary leaf extract, which can improve elasticity and strengthen the skin barrier. Who knew herbs could serve good face?
Haus Labs Triclone™ Skin Tech Hydrating Concealer, £27
ILIA Color Block Lipstick, £28
Shiseido Synchro Skin Self-Refreshing Custom Finish Powder Foundation. £46
Bioactive ingredients you shouldn’t mix
Now that you’re geared for an entire beauty bag revamp, are there any bioactives you shouldn’t mix? Some ingredients don’t pair well, so if you’re layering make-up over skincare, and both contain bioactives, here are some combinations you should avoid.
Retinol and alpha hydroxy acid (AHAs)
While both of these bioactive ingredients are favoured for their anti-ageing properties, pairing them together can result in skin irritation due to their exfoliating effects. This is especially true if you are using highstrength formulas. Either stick to one or the other, or alternate ingredients every other day.
Salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide
These ingredients are two of the most popular for non-prescription acne treatments, with salicylic acid used as an exfoliant and benzoyl peroxide used for combating acne-causing bacteria. However, you may notice that they never appear together in one product. This is because they can increase the risk of skin irritation when used together.
Vitamin C and retinol
Because these ingredients work optimally at different pH levels, using them together can make them both less effective. That being said, they can exist within the same skincare routine – just use vitamin C in the morning, and retinol at night.
Featured image: Unsplash – Olamide Gabriel
