9 reasons not to go cheap on skincare

Your skin will thank you!

03/06/2025

Two female models wearing bold eye makeup smile towards the camera and emabrace

In the quest for ‘good skin’ we find ourselves in the perennial struggle of spend vs. save. Through TikTok osmosis, we’ve entered a phase of championing inexpensive skincare hacks. Take slugging – the act of slathering Vaseline on the face to prevent dryness and protect the moisture barrier. It received 673.4 million views. And did it work? Kind of.

The beauty space is saturated with brands promising fast and effective results at a reasonable price. In the throes of a cost-of-living crisis you can argue this is music to our ears. But when you delve deeper (past the epidermis), you’ll quickly realise making an investment yields better results long-term.

Here, we talk to a range of experts, from award-winning beauty writers to CEOs for leading skincare brands, to find out the real reasons why spending a bit more will do wonders for your complexion.

1. Quality of ingredients

The phrase “you get what you pay for” may not apply to everything, but it certainly has validity when it comes to the ingredients found in our skincare products.

“Cheaper products often use lower-quality or less-effective ingredients. They might rely on fillers, synthetic chemicals, or preservatives that don’t deliver the same benefits as higher quality, active ingredients found in more expensive product,” says Dija Ayodele, founder of the Black Skin Directory.

These low-grade ingredients are commonly used to ‘bulk out’ the product, preserve it or change its consistency. Among them are some potentially harmful components, including parabens, dyes and silicone-based ingredients worth avoiding.

2. Formulation and stability

While we’re on the subject of what’s inside the bottle, high-quality skincare brands invest in better formulations. Advanced formulas tend to be well-balanced, stable, and effective. It’s often the case cheaper products do not have the same level of scientific research behind them, making them less effective or potentially even irritating.

Beauty writer Anita Bhagwandas says: “Moisturisers have big molecules, which means they sit on the skin’s surface to essentially ‘keep things out.’ But serums have smaller molecules that can – depending on their formulations and ingredients – penetrate slightly deeper levels of the skin. So, if it’s a financial choice, get a serum that targets whatever concerns you have (perhaps you’re looking for an antioxidant like vitamin C, for example) and use that before using a cheaper moisturiser.”

3. Skin sensitivity

When it comes to creating specialist products for specific needs, such as sensitive skin, a high-end skincare brand usually comes out on top for having targeting products. Whereas a cheaper product might be a catch-all for general skin types – think dry, oily or combination – its more expensive alternative may delve deeper to address individual problems, such as cystic acne, hyperpigmentation, rosacea or keratosis pilaris (rough bumps on the skin caused by keratin build-up).

Not only that, but these products often fit into a holistic, step-based skincare line that tackles the problem from all angles. Think cleanser, toner, moisturiser. “A well-formulated cleanser ensures that the skin remains balanced, refreshed, and ready to absorb the next skincare steps effectively,” says skincare expert Shenuka Fernando.

4. Long-term results

While a cheap product may seem effective at first, it may not provide long-term results. Higher-quality skincare can deliver more noticeable improvements over time because it contains proven active ingredients that support the skin’s health and appearance in the long run.

For example, “Mannitol is an effective stabiliser and can help maintain the efficacy of other skincare ingredients over time. Usually it is found in premium products but is worth incorporating into your routine,” says skincare formulator and founder of Skin Masterclass, Cigdem Kemal Yilmaz.

5. Packaging and preservation

Pretty packaging isn’t just for show! Top brands often invest in better packaging that helps preserve the potency of their products, like air-tight containers or UV-protective bottles. Founder of SuperfoodLx Paula Francis says, “Some of our premium formulas like the Hair, Skin & Nail Oil is stored in a brown glass bottle to protect it from white light and UV rays which can cause degradation.”

And if it just happens to look good on your bathroom shelf, what’s the harm?

6. Fusing nature and science

While we swear by our shea butter and castor oil in their purest forms, using high-tech, luxury skincare doesn’t mean we’re going against nature. Often, higher-end products make the most of the natural ingredients that are available by utilising botanical extracts, minerals and proteins, and combine them with innovative manufacturing methods to create targeted formulas.

“We have looked at the skincare concerns that our customers, our audience and, predominantly, black people face, and we developed products using ingredients that are science-backed but in their natural form,” explains Yaw Okyere founder of Ava Estell.

7. Rigorous trialling

All skincare brands have to follow strict rules before a product can hit the shelves, but those in the higher price ranges often invest heavily in testing their products for efficacy and safety. To ensure their products are effective for specific skin concerns, they work with dermatologists, chemists and clinical trials.

Founder of Melasun Marina Camu shares, “With my product development leader, we spent a lot of time working on the lab formulation brief and non-negotiables. I partnered with an amazing well-established local lab that specialised in suncare formulation. They developed formulations which combine a range of SPF levels, adaptable to a broad spectrum, with skin enhancement ingredients to ensure a good hydration level.”

8. Ethical sourcing and sustainability

Though ethical values are not exclusive to premium brands, they may prioritise ethical sourcing of ingredients and sustainable practices in production, packaging, and transportation as standard. This might include the use of organic or eco-friendly ingredients, cruelty-free testing, or sustainable packaging, in comparison to cheaper brands, which may cut costs by sourcing budget, unsustainable ingredients or using non-recyclable packaging materials.

9. No harsh additives

Back to that all-important ingredients list – “the shorter, the better” is a good rule to follow. Cheaper products may include a myriad of harsh additives like alcohols and artificial fragrances that can result in inflammation or sensitivity, particularly for those with more delicate skin.

4.5.6 Skin founder Noelly Michoux reveals the mindful approach taken at the formulation stage. “Our signature Vitalized Water is a great vector for other ingredients, to the functional agents used to create textures, which are free of all nano-plastics and silicones, using gentle nature-like emulsifiers, eliminating all drying ingredients, denatured alcohol, all petrol-derived ingredients and having a balanced approach to using active science-backed ingredients to deliver efficacy without the backlash of high concentration ingredients.”