Fetch the spritz and bonding glue because the hair creativity from the Nineties is kicking down the door. The most polished and preened hairstyles worn by iconic R&B and hip-hop stars have risen from the grave of music magazines and bedroom posters. Now is the time to refamiliarise yourself with burnt end braids à la Brandy to pristine French rolls and retro “hee hee haa” fingerwaves.
There’s no doubt this was an era for flexing black hair artistry. “Fashion and hair trends always come full circle, but I can honestly say the Nineties aesthetics will always heavily influence future hairstyles and clothing,” says Nneka Allison founder of HoochTeeStyles, a style house specialising in nostalgic hair. “I’ve always had a love for Nineties culture. I was born in 1994 myself, so I was really in the midst of these iconic looks.”
Rappers like Megan Thee Stallion, Spice, Cardi B and Glorilla have helped modernise the elaborate vibe of Nineties swag. But to give credit where credit is due: “Lil Kim is a true icon,” says Allison “In her 1996 music video Crush On You she pulled off so many clean pressed, brightly coloured wigs. She paved the way for women to be confident and comfortable with their hair, body, and sexuality.”
The level of extraness is for your choosing. Jamaican dancehall queens, who were the originators of this trend had a penchant for exhibitionist colour. The kaleidoscope of shades only had one rule: the brighter the better. Throwback lookbooks dedicated to black women would have pages of flamboyant styles where stylists would show their creative prowess through the medium of crème press, spritz and a hot comb. It was the norm see 5-in-1 hair adornments displaying a crimped fringe, a French roll at the back, a waterfall ponytail on top, dip-dyed ends and the piece de resistance, a zip sewn-in at the base of the pony.
The Bronner Brothers show based in Atlanta and Afro Hair & Beauty (AHB) in London have become opportunities for hair creatives to show their craft to a live audience. One year at AHB as part of the Sensationnel Icon show, a model wore a wedding cake on her head, fashioned out of wefted weaves. Whereas this sits at the OTT end of the spectrum – more sculpture than style – Allison has developed a more accessible approach. “When you get a HoochTeeStyles pixie cut prepare to have a pop of colour or a blend of bright tones. I always tailor it to the client factoring in their skin tone and personality.”
Whether it’s to your taste or not, the skill required and attention to detail for Nineties hair demands the highest respect. Black women are known to spend hours in the salon, but little thought goes towards the hairstylist *correction* hair artisan working their unparalleled magic. “The pixie cut is in demand, and if your client has a whole head of hair, you must figure out a way to get it to lay ultra flat. The secret lies in the braiding; small partings and technique are paramount. For clients that have long hair I always do different braiding methods i.e. a circular pattern to avoid the quick weave or sew in becoming clumpy.”
The stigma of these styles looking ‘ghetto’ or ‘rachet’ is one that Allison refutes. “I think the girls that get it get it. The reality is these hairstyles are created by confident unapologetic women, who just so happen to come from less fortunate areas. The moment these styles reach high fashion spaces the narrative changes to ‘’creative’’, ‘’expressive’’ or even ‘’brave’’. Unfortunately, this is how the world treats black culture.”
With nearly half a million TikTok views, HoochTeeStyles Nineties glam is making waves – the old school mousse and swoop way. “My content brings it right back to the South where you get the ghetto fab looks. A lot of people when they think of the Nineties it’s Aaliyah in Tommy Hilfiger or TLC wearing oversized clothes with Timberland boots. Trends will always come round in full circle, but the Nineties will always be prominent in influencing hair, beauty and fashion – after all, it was our best years!”
Featured image courtesy of Charisse Kenion
