Having a baby is one of life’s precious life events. But there is no doubt it puts your body through a raft of changes. One that tops the list is the transformation of hair; from exponential hair growth in the first trimester to hair loss and thinning in the postpartum stage, the rollercoaster ride can leave many feeling bewildered. “I’m a mum of five beautiful girls ranging from ages 11 years old to 9 months old. In every one of my pregnancies my experience was different, with two of my postpartum ending up with hair loss,” says celebrity hairstylist Molecia Seasay.
Afro haircare in early pregnancy
So, let’s start from the beginning. During early pregnancy the likelihood is hair follicles will flourish. As your body is flooded with pregnancy hormones (oestrogen), you are likely to experience growth. Approximately 15 weeks in, strands appear thick and lustrous, appearing not only on the head, but sprouting in unwanted areas including the face, arms and chest.
There are exceptions to the rule whereby some experience the opposite. The hair becomes finer and vulnerable to shedding due to a depletion of vital hormones. “The shift in hormonal levels in the early pregnancy stages and an increase in stress to the body to support the newly growing baby, can cause an increase in hair shedding,” explains Eva Proudman, resident trichologist for Absolute Collagen. “This is a condition called telogen effluvium and is a disruption to the hair growing and shedding cycle. It does not cause permanent hair loss but will make the hair feel thinner all over, especially to the longer lengths. Other factors in the first trimester that can cause an increase in hair shedding are the effects of morning sickness and an inability to eat a well-balanced diet in those first few months.”
The heightened awareness for what you consume and what the body absorbs becomes paramount. This extends to your hair too: what products are you using? Do they contain harmful ingredients? Can you continue to dye, relax or texturise your hair? The advice is non-conclusive. Some professionals claim using ammonia-free hair dyes or relaxing the hair three to four times during pregnancy will not have any negative effects on the baby. Kelly Simpkin-Clarke, hairdresser, mother of two, and creator of WeTwo suggests erring on the side of caution. “As a baby develops in the womb or during breastfeeding, they are exposed to the substances present in the mother’s bloodstream, including any potentially harmful chemicals. Safe haircare products ensure that the baby is not exposed to unnecessary risks during these crucial stages of development.”
Afro haircare in mid to late pregnancy
As pregnancy progresses and you head towards the second trimester, you’ll find that your body begins to adjust, and your hormones settle accordingly. As for your mane? Provided that you maintain a balanced diet and you don’t contract a pregnancy-related condition i.e. iron deficiency, gestational diabetes or high blood pressure, you should find that your hair will retain a healthy balance. “Typically, from the second trimester hair can remain in the growing phase. Hair shedding tends to slow down leading to a feeling of thicker fuller hair, which is all part of the pregnancy glow,” says Proudman.
It’s during this phase expectant mums begin to think about hairstyles that offer practicality and convenience. Angela Stevens, celebrity hairstylist and cocreator of Cantu’s Protective Styles by Angela, candidly shares the realities of juggling pregnancy and motherhood while trying to cultivate a solid haircare regimen. “This is a marathon not a sprint so the lessons come at every turn. My best advice is rest when you can and do what you can, everything else can wait. When it comes to your hair, try not to get styles that take a long time to install or take out. You don’t want to be in a compromising position when it comes to the time for delivery. Once you are closer to term, I highly recommend a protective style like braids, twists or a weave to make it easier to manage day to day. Hydrating your hair and scalp is important because the baby is soaking up nutrients from the body, and your scalp is the last place to receive the nourishment. I recommend applying Cantu Protective Styles Daily Oil Drops as part of your daily scalp ritual.”
Postpartum Afro haircare
With all the care going to the newborn, it’s typical (and very understandable) for new mums to not be cognizant of what’s happening with their hair until weeks or even months down the line. The spike in oestrogen hormones from the first trimester will begin to taper off triggering shedding, hair loss, and dry, brittle strands.
“Postpartum occurs four months after having a baby causing an increase in hair shedding,” explains Proudman.
“This is due to several factors like the hormonal drop in oestrogen, lower iron levels and poor quality sleep. The hair strands require more ferritin (protein) than usual to compensate for the change in hormonal levels. The body is good at managing hair shedding and usually within six to nine months the shedding stops, and the growth cycle returns to normal.”
It’s during this phase new mums are advised to up the ante in haircare. Of course, lack of time is a huge factor, so fuss-free hair solutions are your go-to. “After I had my son, the easiest style for me was a low sleek ponytail,” explains Stevens. “I would use my Cantu Braid & Twist Gel daily and smooth my hairline because that was all I could manage for quite some time. It is made with marula oil and aloe vera which helps to soften and slick the hair so there’s no tension. Shedding post-delivery requires low manipulation hairstyles to reduce breakage, especially on delicate areas like the hairline. Also, hair loss is totally common from breastfeeding and the hair will usually grow back.”
If you are still concerned about your hair shedding nine months after postpartum, seek a consultation with a certified trichologist.
What the trichologists say
“To maintain a normal growth cycle, eat a healthy, balanced diet with plenty of protein and iron rich foods. The Absolute Collagen Supplement contains eight grams of protein and vitamin C to support the absorption of iron.” – Eva Proudman, Absolute Collagen resident trichologist
“Elevated estrogen levels often lead to thicker, more lustrous hair, extending the growth phase and reducing shedding. However, the increase in progesterone can also affect the hair follicles, potentially altering the hair’s texture and growth pattern. Postpartum hair loss is a temporary condition that usually resolves on its own within a few months. Be patient and give your hair time to regrow.” – Lorna Jones, Care for Hair trichologist
“Sourcing pregnancy-safe hair products can be difficult and confusing. While pregnant avoid these ingredients: salicylate, salicylic acid, gluconolactone, tartaric acid and chemical sunscreen. These can be re-introduced postpartum.” – Samantha Stewart, trichologist at The Spencer Clinic
Postpartum hair products for team mum
Cantu Biotin-Infused Hair & Scalp Oil, £9
Coming in at 59ml, this bottle is small but mighty. Made with 99% naturally derived ingredients – including this year’s hair growth star rosemary – it can be incorporated into your routine at any stage. If you find your scalp becomes exacerbated with dryness or you’re experiencing thin edges postpartum, this is worth a try.
Créme Of Nature Apply Cider Vinegar Clarifying Rinse, £9.99
Opted for a protective style? Or just like your hair feeling squeaky clean? Give this ACV rinse a go. The squeezy cone nozzle makes targeting the scalp easier to achieve an invigorated cleanse. Free of sulfates, silicones and petrolatum; it’s so gentle it retains the hair’s natural moisture and can be used on a weekly basis.
WeTwo Post-Pregnancy Conditioner, £26
Using products developed for the needs of shedding during postpartum not only offers a solution but reassurance. This conditioner is filled with a roster of B vitamins beneficial for all textures. If you notice changes in your curl pattern or an increase in hair fall, rather than doing an overhaul, introduce one thing at a time to monitor results.
RUWA 3x Water Wave, from £10.99
A high-end remake of the much-loved water wave texture, this version from Ruwa is made with Aquatex fibre to repel water for a faster dry time. Conducive for crotchet installation, it can help minimise manipulation and excessive tension at a time when your hair is the least of your concerns.
Aveda Be Curly Advanced Coil Definer Gel, £28
Aveda’s commitment to using organic plant-based ingredients makes it a frontrunner for clean postpartum hair care. If you’re unfamiliar with their products, this texture enhancing gel is an entry into how conditioning the stylers are.
Hector’s Global Hair With Zeal Biotin Gummies, £30
Formulated by award-winning hairdresser Hector Obeng, these vegan-friendly gummies contain the precise balance of biotin (B7) and other essential vitamins to maintain healthy hair for new mums. Take one gummy daily to prevent or stabilise thinning.
The Silk Collection Silk Hair Wrap, £40
If you’ve ummed and ahhed about investing in a silk wrap, now’s the time to take the plunge. Add an extra layer of protection against hairmares with this stylish turban made from 100% mulberry silk.
Brands to bookmark
Make postpartum beauty and body care a priority too with the these treatments.
This Works Perfect Cleavage & Neck Serum,£40
MBH Perineal Balm, £16.95
Organyc Maternity Home Pads (14 pads), £7.99
