Has dressing down had its day? Since the pandemic, dress down days have become woven into the tapestry of everyday fashion. Take the humble co-ord tracksuit, it’s fitting for the school run and office. But now the scale has tipped, and we’re back to a more refined aesthetic.
Sharp suits and ties, pleated trousers, and structured silhouettes are returning to the fore, and Tolu Coker just took the trend to another level. At her AW25 presentation, “ORI – Upon Reflection”, the LVMH Prize semi-finalist delivered a masterclass in tailoring, blending sharp European cuts with rich diasporic influences.
Inspired by Yoruba spirituality and Black ceremonial dress across the world, Coker reimagined classic tailoring through a ritualistic lens. Crisp white suits nodded to the flowing garments of Aladura churches, while double-breasted blazers and sharply cinched waistcoats carried echoes of Savile Row. And let’s talk accessories – collaborations with Manolo Blahnik and Virna Pasquinelli added extra polish, with sleek footwear and dramatic hats completing the look.
