Struggling to find skincare that truly caters to darker skin? 4.5.6 Skin was founded with the aim of creating skincare products that address your skin’s unique needs, using a scientific system that sets it apart from other brands on the market.
Founded by Noelly Michoux, a former beauty e-commerce director, the brand and its product offering was developed with the help of top scientists. Their aim was not just to create safe and effective skincare for darker skin, but also to promote research equity for all skin types, as the majority of skincare products are only tested on those with lighter skin.
Here, Noelly tells us about the scientific system that gives 4.5.6 Skin its name, the impact of performative inclusivity in the beauty industry, and what she believes ‘investing in your skincare routine’ really means.
For those who don’t know, what’s the 4.5.6 in 4.5.6 Skin?
The 4.5.6 in 4.5.6 Skin comes from the Fitzpatrick Phototyping System, which classifies skin into six phototypes based on response to sun exposure, tanning, and burning. This system also informs how skin reacts to cosmetic procedures and skincare ingredients based on functional and structural differences.
Phototypes I, II and III are white skin, and Phototypes IV, V and VI are darker skin tones and they represent over 60% of the world’s population. Darker skin tones have unique physiological differences that demand tailored skincare beyond representation:
- Their thicker stratum corneum affects hydration and nutrient absorption.
- Weakened skin barrier under cold climates and transepidermal water loss due to low sunlight energy. This exacerbates dullness or ashiness.
- Skin metabolism is often slowed down due to low sun energy leading to dull skin.
- 15% higher intercellular lipids ( more sebum production) increases acne risk.
- Vitamin D deficiency in low-sunlight environments increases skin dryness and affects the overall metabolism.
- Acne triggers: Excess sebum, slower renewal, androgen sensitivity.
- Keratosis pilaris (rough hair follicles) causes inflammation and scarring.
- Hyperpigmentation risk: Trauma or harsh ingredients can overstimulate melanin production causing hyperpigmentation
- Melanin types: Eumelanin predominance in darker skin affects its natural glow, requiring rebalancing melanin production for radiance.
These differences highlight the need for the beauty industry to go beyond performative inclusivity and integrate these insights into research and development for truly effective and inclusive skincare.
The Fitzpatrick phototype system is widely used to categorise skin types, but many consumers are unaware of it. On a basic level how can this system improve our skincare choices?
While consumers are familiar with terms like “dry,” “oily,” or “combination” skin types, these labels oversimplify and overlook the deeper structural and functional characteristics of skin characteristics that are largely influenced by skin phototypes.
Traits like oil production, water retention, pH levels, skin trauma, barrier function vary significantly by phototype. Phototype determines critical factors such as melanin content, barrier strength, UV sensitivity, and skin pH. For example, Phototypes I–III, with a less dense stratum corneum (which less collagen and elastin) and low melanin require more sun protection and anti-ageing focus, while Phototypes IV–VI face more challenges with hyperpigmentation, dryness and dullness.
This nuanced understanding reveals that products formulated for generic “skin types” often fail to meet the specific needs of diverse phototypes. Prioritising phototype would ensure skincare solutions are rooted in physiology, not just surface symptoms, and empower consumers to make informed decisions. For instance, a Phototype VI individual with oily skin needs more hydration, not just oil control via excess mattifying that can actually increase oil production and lock the individual in the vicious cycle of excess oil production. By shifting the hierarchy to phototype first, brands could improve skin health, enhance product efficacy and tolerance, and move beyond performative inclusivity and toward truly scientifically inclusive skincare.
Many consumers feel that inclusivity in the skincare industry stops at marketing, with product development and testing not extending to Black and Brown skin. What are the biggest obstacles you see in achieving true inclusivity in skincare?
The primary obstacle is legitimising the structural and functional differences among various skin phototypes. The beauty industry predominantly operates on a mass-market, one-size-fits-all model. Recognising that darker skin has different needs requires a complete 360-degree mindset shift. Implementing these differences in R&D and testing demands investments that mainstream brands are not prepared to make.
Moreover, the incentive for change remains low because performative inclusivity works. Testing for active ingredients is conducted on Caucasian or East Asian individuals most of the time, with little data validating efficacy on melanated skin. Yet, melanated skin is targeted in marketing campaigns, women of colour see themselves in mainstream ads and respond with purchase and support.
The industry thus has minimal incentive to do more, and the data backs it up. A 2022 McKinsey report found that 75% of Black beauty consumers can be persuaded to purchase products by ads featuring various skin tones across all races. However, Black-founded brands capture only 18% of Black consumers’ beauty spending. The lack of proven success impacts how much investment these brands can attract, limiting their ability to scale marketing and achieve the financial success needed to invest in more research. It’s a vicious cycle.
With 4.5.6 Skin, you’ve created a brand specifically designed for melanin-rich skin. Could you share some of the challenges you’ve faced in developing products for these skin types that the wider industry has overlooked?
Beside being a brand focused on melanated skin, our other objective was to create a skin health system that also respects overall health and the environment – it is triple the challenge.
Our research shows key differences in melanated skin from a structural and functional point, to differences in the pH, to the impact of vitamin D deficiency in skin health, to a unique sensitivity to inflammation due to melanin. Our research revealed a dozen key differences. That meant we had to rethink our formulation philosophy and concentrate on two key aspects: Eliminating inflammation at every step of the routine, because inflammation always lead to the top concern of darker skin aka hyperpigmentation; And creating formulas that can penetrate all the layers of the skin to deliver essential nutrients and actives that address both the concerns and their causes.
We create our signature Vitalized Water that is a great vector for other ingredients, to the functional agents used to create textures, which are free of all nano-plastics and silicones, using gentle nature-like emulsifiers, eliminating all drying ingredients, denatured alcohol, all petrol-derived ingredients and having a balanced approach to using active science-backed ingredients to deliver efficacy without the backlash of high concentration ingredients.
Labs and Contract Manufacturers were not open to changing their traditional ways of making skincare to accommodate us so the challenges started with the R&D which is why we invested in our research lab, then in our own manufacturing unit to streamline the process from conception to production. This also allowed us to be agile and co-create all our formulas with community feedback.
The other challenge was testing. To date, the entire regulatory process is still calibrated on fairer skin tones; it is not possible to perform patch tests on darker skin tones, even for clinical testing. I was a challenge to find an established clinical studies company with darker skin tones in their testing panel. Therefore we had to perform the test under the legal process, then organise internal testing with our target audience.
Of course funding has always been challenging, research and innovations are extremely expensive and there is still some resistance to properly funding research for darker skin. Marketing to our target also proves challenging, brands such as us face a strong competition from mainstream brands who intensively target our audiences but do not truly address their needs. The awareness, visibility needed for us to succeed requires a lot of effort and marketing dollars.
Does a good skincare routine require financial investment?
Absolutely, skincare is definitely an investment! But it doesn’t have to break the bank. Here’s how I view investing in your skincare:
Time investment: Beauty starts with knowledge, so getting to know your skin takes a bit of research and learning. Taking the time to understand your true skin needs is key to choosing the right products.
Habit investment: Building good skincare habits is crucial. I often say consistency is the greatest and most underrated ingredient in skincare. Sticking to your routine regularly really makes a difference.
Financial investment: Investing in the right products is important, but that doesn’t mean you have to buy the most expensive stuff out there. Just because a brand has a high price tag doesn’t automatically mean it’s the best for your skin. It’s all about choosing effective, health-focused products that fit your budget.
For someone who’s new to 4.5.6 Skin, what would be your advice on how to choose the right products for their specific needs?
If you’re just starting out, here’s a simple 4.5.6 Skin, 3-step routine to help you achieve healthy, radiant skin.
Step 1: Green Bae Clarifying Cleanser
Begin with our Green Bae Clarifying Cleanser for the deepest cleanse with the gentlest touch. Green Bae is a treatment cleanser that not only removes impurities, makeup, sunscreen residue but also provides excellent support for acne-prone skin.
Step 2: To Be Clear Exfoliating Mask
Next, use the To Be Clear Exfoliating-Mask. This gentle mask buffs away dead skin cells, renewing your skin for a smooth and even texture. It’s perfect for preparing your skin to absorb the benefits of the following treatments.
Step 3: Choose Your Targeted Treatment
Depending on your specific skin needs, you have two fantastic options for Step 3:
- Option A: Sevenly Delight Brightening Serum, our award-winning, best seller
What It Does: Treats and prevents dark spots, acne scars, melasma, and under-eye dark circles.
Benefits: Reduces inflammation and hydrates the skin, leaving you with a brighter more even complexion and a more resilient skin. - Option B: Our Night Hack Intense Overnight Repair Cream
What It Does: Tackles signs of ageing while boosting your skin’s antioxidant capacities.
Benefits: Enhances hydration and brightens the skin, working overnight to repair and rejuvenate for a youthful glow by morning.
Stick with it for 2 months and assess your results.
Finally, what’s your favourite step in your skincare routine?
I’d say my favourite step is applying our Sevenly Delight Brightening Serum. It’s been my skin’s best friend for the past four years! This serum is why makeup is no longer something I desperately need but something I enjoy and can confidently live without. It’s like giving my skin a pep talk on handling hyperpigmentation paired with a hydration hug all at once. Plus, watching those dark spots fade away always feels a bit like magic—no wand required!
